Archives For New Mexico

 

ristraAfter laying low for a little while to recuperate and recharge, on Day 28 we left Los Alamos to continue west.

I was bummed that we didn’t get to see as much of New Mexico as I’d hoped. Thankfully, Kelly and Grant suggested we check out the galleries on Canyon Road in Santa Fe on our way back to Route 40.

I was so glad we did; I got a good dose of Southwestern art and lifestyle. If it was just me on the trip, there’d be a lot more art museums on the itinerary. But Mtuseni isn’t big on art, feeling intimidated by it. I told him all you really need to know about art is that it’s personal and subjective: Some things you’ll like, and some things you don’t.

With the pressure off, he was able to relax and just browse as we went from one gallery to the next. He found some “paintings” made of thin slices of wood that he really liked. I’ll take that as a victory.

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santa fe goddess

 

santa fe koko

 

love head 2

 

santa fe chimes

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Many pieces caught my eye. We both were enchanted by the outdoor gallery of wind sculptures whirling in the sunshine. And though I’m not a jewelry person, I was enticed by a handsome gentleman with white hair and sun-burnished skin to buy a stone bracelet that was too expensive and too big for my skinny writer’s wrists. Maybe I need to go back and have him resize it — and we’ll see where things go from there!

Check out the wind sculptures in action on our Instagram!

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santa fe sunflowers

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It was such a beautiful morning, with the perfect dry air, vibrant colors, and casual Southwest vibe. I would have loved to hang out at one of the outdoor cafes for lunch and a glass of wine — or two — but we had a long drive ahead and I still felt tired from my epic cold.

As we sped down the highway toward Arizona, I felt my energy shift. I must have lived in the Southwest in a past life. It just takes hold of me and I feel awed and peaceful and content. The sight of a freight train chugging across the desert in the distance gives me chills and gets me a little teary. I don’t know why. There’s an epic loneliness and beauty to it. 

Outside of Albuquerque we came upon a massive mound of pink cliffs, glowing in the afternoon light. Museni was impressed. But I knew this was just a taste of the wonders that lie ahead in the next couple days.

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gallup cliffs

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That night we pulled into a motel just off the highway in Arizona — its calling card being the closest lodging to the Petrified Forest. Mtuseni hated the place; he ranked it in his bottom three of the entire trip. Maybe even the worst. I liked it. Sitting by itself in the middle of nowhere. Just a place for weary truckers and travelers to stop for the night. The little attached restaurant seemed frozen in time to the early 1970s, but it had a surprisingly ambitious menu. bb

 

Chamber Inn3

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My grouchy mate just wanted to sleep, so I sat by myself in a booth watching the cars zoom back and forth along Route 40. The place was brightly lit and nearly empty; it felt like I was sitting in a desert version of Edward Hopper’s Nighthawks. I had a decent chicken Caesar salad and some hot water with lemon for my throat.

The place, the meal, it was nothing special, not at all. But I was totally happy. Something about the Southwest… 

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ristra mgb

I sooo wanted to buy a ristra in New Mexico. But it would never have survived the trip.

 

!meow colage

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After our whirlwind tour of sites in Los Alamos and Taos, my friend Kelly suggested that Mtuseni and I check out Meow Wolf — an “immersive” art exhibit in Santa Fe. She described it as “indescribable.” I was more in the mood for traditional Southwestern flavor, but it sounded intriguing. And maybe more fun for Mtuseni, who’s not really an an art guy.

As the Buddhist saying goes, “After enlightenment, the laundry.” Only this time we reversed it. We hit up a laundromat in Santa Fe, then Mtuseni and I walked into what looked like a warehouse or empty big box store — and were immediately bombarded with vibrant colors and textures and … stuff. Meow Wolf is a maze of big and small rooms and nooks and passages with different artistic themes. You basically wander and take it all in. It really is impossible to describe… you have to see it and experience it. 

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wolf pair

The treehouse has catwalks that link to exhibits on an upper level, with views of the main room from above.

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wolf colors

Meow Wolf is pretty dark inside; it can be hard to get pictures. This is the main entry path.

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!meow mirror

This looked like a good place for an infinite nap.

 

wolf bw

This room was pretty cool. It reminded me of old Warner Brothers cartoons from the 1930s. And it was nice to get a break from mad colors everywhere.

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!meow strings

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Mtuseni and I wandered around, following our own paths. There’s no formal path or flow; you just go where your curiosity takes you. To be honest, the whole thing soon seemed a bit gimmicky to me: more Universal Studios than art. (Though kudos to the artists who did create it — it’s just not my cup of tea.) I felt very tired. I thought of just lying down somewhere and taking a nap — people would probably think it was just part of the exhibit. 

After a couple hours we escaped back into the blinding New Mexico sunlight and drove the half hour back to Kelly’s place in Los Alamos. And this is when the crash happened.

Thankfully it wasn’t a car crash. The nonstop weeks of planning and driving and touring finally caught up with me. I was sick. Tired, achey, congested, even a slight fever. I slept when we got back and emerged only for dinner. The next day Mtsueni and I went into Los Alamos so I could deal with a paperwork issue back home — no epic adventures. I was a slug in a daze.

Luckily our hosts graciously stepped up to entertain Mtuseni. Kelly’s husband Grant is very active and outdoorsy. He has lots of equipment and toys… and insisted that Mtuseni get the full experience. He even took a long spin on a $3,500 mountain bike Grant was trying out. (Thank god I was napping when Grant told Mtuseni to ride his motorcycle! And Mtuseni had the sense to say no!)

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mtu suit

Grant’s winter hiking gear. Given Mtuseni’s well-documented distaste for the cold, he’d probably wear this when it gets below 60 degrees!

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mtu board

Once he got over his shock at hanging upside-down, Mtuseni did sit-ups. A little cruel bit of showing off in front of three late 50s folks who could barely do them on a flat surface!

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We wrapped up our last night in Los Alamos sitting on the deck where we had our first burrito breakfast — this time with old school Christmas lights. We marveled at millions of stars in a clear Southwestern sky, and showed Mtuseni the Big Dipper, which can’t be seen in the Southern Hemisphere. The visit wasn’t all I’d planned, but it was a nice little slice of home life before heading back out to an endless string of hotels and restaurants. Thanks guys! 

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alamos sunset

    

welcome nm

On Day 25 of the road trip we headed out to stay with a dear friend from my San Francisco days. Kelly also happens to be the tourism marketing director for Los Alamos, so we were in good hands!

We started out with a taste test of three breakfast burritos with New Mexico chilies: bacon green, sausage red, and Christmas (red and green). My fave was the Christmas. Mtuseni liked the red… probably because it had sausage; the more meat the better in his eyes! The view from Kelly’s deck was breathtaking; on a clear day you can make out the Rockies in Colorado.

Kelly planned an entire tour day for us, speeding along hairpin turns and cliffs, chatting away, and occasionally looking at the road. Mtuseni and I were freaked out at first. More than once we each yelled, “Watch the road!” But we quickly relaxed under the happy spell of Kell. After all, she’s been there almost 20 years and is still in one piece. 

Out first stop was the Valle Caldera, a 13-mile circular depression created by an ancient volcano. It’s so big; no ground-level photo can capture the scale.

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caldera sign trio

Still alive after a breakfast of blazing New Mexico chilies and Kelly’s daredevil driving!

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caldera

Valle Caldera feels like a vast field of velvet plopped among the mountains and mesas of New Mexico.

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We watched some elk in the distance and grabbed some photos, then headed off to see Taos Pueblo. Being a South African Zulu, we thought Mtuseni would appreciate seeing an original Native American community. But when we arrived, it was closed for some sacred rituals that week. Just like in Montgomery; I have shit timing. Instead, we had lunch at a cafe in Taos. 

taos cafe kell

It’s so great when old friends fall in after many years like no time has passed. And yes, Kelly is a dead ringer for Kyra Sedgwick!

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After lunch we headed to Earthship … a community of people living off the grid and, despite their entrance sign, not super welcoming. We took photos of the quirky buildings but were warned by Kelly to heed the No Trespassing signs: Evidently they don’t take kindly to strangers. That’s the wild west, for ya! (Maybe they should take down their visitor center sign.)

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earthship sign

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earthship wall

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earthship spires

I think these generate power. Or maybe they help the Earthship residents stay in touch with their home planet.

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On our way back from Earthship we stopped at the Rio Grande Gorge for some treats and terror. 

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rio grande sign pair

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I don’t do well with heights, neither does Kelly. They don’t bother Mtuseni, but when he returned from walking on the bridge over the gorge, his face was a bit wan. We asked how it was and he said, “Very high.” 

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On the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge. That is a looong way down. (And a short barrier!)

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Feeling ballsy and energized by the magic of the Southwest and the day, I challenged Kelly to see who could walk further to the center of the bridge. Mtuseni provided a great play-by-play video as we gamely headed off. I did okay for a while, but seeing the river waaaay down below quickly turned my knees to jelly and I bailed. Of course Kelly made it to the center. I’m not ashamed of my 15-foot adventure. (Though I wouldn’t say I’m proud either.)

Click here for our Instagram greeting from the Gorge!

After our stunt we headed over to the Partridge Family hippie bus to grab something to drink. Despite the cheery, groovy venue, the woman inside was cold and standoffish — and was really big on “boundaries.” She must go home to one of those wine bottle houses at the Earthship. No worries, we laughed it off because…. well, we’re with Kell. 

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latte bus

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We had a long drive back to Los Alamos surrounded by gorgeous scenery, especially as the hills and mesas began to glow at dusk. 

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mesa trio

Late summer. Early dusk. Somewhere between Taos and Los Alamos.

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Fulfilling her role as community cheerleader and tour guide, Kelly insisted that we take a photo in the tub at Bathtub Row Brewing in Los Alamos. Mtuseni and I were still trying to figure out the selfie stick. 

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bathtub

“Gotta get a photo in the tub,” Kelly said. Little did we know what would come next…

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We got a few shots then leaned back for a high-angle shot — where we quickly discovered that the tub wasn’t secured. Yes, the ten-ton cast iron tub tipped over, spilling us out onto a slate slab. And, yes, people sitting in the brewery saw the whole thing. I wish we had video, the slow-motion shock as we realized what was happening! It was a perfect ending to an adventure with Kell — always much love and laughter.

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bathtub2

The guilty party after righting the tipped tub. I’m wondering how my broken tailbone will handle the next six weeks of driving!

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And when we got back to her place, Kelly made dinner for five of us! It’s easy when you’ve had seven coffees throughout the day. 

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nmtrue glasses

Rockin’ the shades from our Los Alamos swag bags! Thanks, Kell!

texas sky

Finally… wide-open country! And hills!

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Day 24 of the Long-Distance Dad road trip was a travel day, but that doesn’t mean it was dull. Zooming along for mile after mile, we still experienced some of the wonder of the Southwest. 

Lugging our stuff out of the room in Lubbock, Mtuseni bumped into several guys who were also leaving. Decked out in tight black jeans and leather jackets, jet-black hair, silver bracelets — they were definitely in a band. Mtuseni exchanged “Excuse me’s” with them and that was it.

As they piled into their oversized van I said, “They must be heading off to their next gig.” On the way out I stopped to get a bagel and then we bid farewell to Lubbock and its overpowering smell of fertilizer … or manure … or something farm-like. With breaks, we had a 6+ hour drive to Santa Fe.

As expected, Route 84 was two lanes in each direction surrounded by miles of flat nothing. You could practically see the curve of the earth. Occasionally we’d come up on a small town with a few houses, a dollar store, maybe a silo. They were nothing more than gas-and-piss stops on a long road in the middle of nowhere. You could drive through one in a couple minutes, then  back to the lonesome highway.

We stopped a couple times to take care of business. Then at the third place, who pulls up but the band in their black van! Mtuseni and I were more than a hundred miles outside of Lubbock. We’d stopped randomly for various lengths of time. Yet here were the only people we “knew” in all of Texas, stopping at the same nothing little gas station, moments behind us.

I don’t know what you call that — just coincidence, perhaps. But I found it totally cool. It felt like bumping into old friends. Maybe the guys weren’t in a band. Maybe they were shamans. Or spirits. Or spies. I chocked it up to the mystery and magic of the Southwest.

As we headed back on the road, with many miles ahead, I hoped we might encounter our compatriots again. We didn’t. Maybe they were headed someplace else. Maybe they just vanished in the haze and heat. Maybe they never existed.  

Just before turning onto Highway 285 for the final leg to Santa Fe, we stopped at Clines Corners for some gas and kitsch. These throwback gift shops remind me of the ones on Cape Cod where we’d spend summers in the 70’s. Most of those are long gone now. People had less sophisticated taste back then; there was a bigger appetite for cheesy souvenirs and crap.  

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clines sign

In the middle of nowhere, Clines Corners meets travelers’ needs for gas … or kitschy souvenirs.

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clines store

I love tacky gift shops. I rarely buy anything, but the visual chaos is like a drug. So many colors! So much crap!

 

clines buffalo

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After the endless flat plains of Texas we’d at least begun to experience a few small hills in New Mexico. A couple miles outside Clines Corners there was nothing but open space in all directions. I got out to look around and grab a photo of the road ahead of us, rising gently skyward toward the horizon … with untold adventures great and small on the other side. It felt like a metaphor for our trip — and for life. There’s endless possibility in all that emptiness. It’s one of my favorite photos.

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long empty road in Texas leading to the horizon

One of my favorite pics from the trip. A road stretching to the horizon … and who knows what adventures await over the next hill. #ILoveTravel

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Check out our Instagram greeting from the middle of Highway 285!

The American Southwest … It never disappoints! 

lubbock rd pair

On the long, lonesome, beautiful road to Santa Fe.